I frequently receive questions about cosmetics, often on familiar topics. However, occasionally, I encounter queries that are entirely new to me. Recently, a client asked if their products complied with WADA anti-doping guidelines. I wasn’t aware of WADA, let alone its regulations.
The World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA) is an independent international body established in 1999 to combat doping in sports. It promotes a doping-free environment through scientific research, education, and anti-doping capacity development. WADA’s main role is to maintain the World Anti-Doping Code, which harmonizes anti-doping efforts globally. A critical part of this is the Prohibited List, updated annually, detailing banned substances and methods.
Fortunately, my client’s products did not contain any problematic ingredients. Cosmetics are produced following Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice (ISO 22716), which ensures strict ingredient controls and detailed record-keeping. Therefore, the likelihood of inadvertent contamination is low, and manufacturers can verify compliance with their records.
Even if a banned substance is present, it’s challenging for most molecules to penetrate the skin and reach the bloodstream in significant quantities. The case of a UFC fighter who tested positive due to contamination from chlorphenesin, a cosmetic preservative, illustrates this point. Chlorphenesin’s molecular properties allowed it to penetrate the skin, leading to detectable levels in the bloodstream—a rare occurrence.
I have to say I was very impressed at the chemistry in this case. The preservative that gave the false reading was chlorphenesin which would be used at about 1%. The fighter in question was bantamweight, so about 55Kg. If he’d used an entire 50ml tube he’d have applied about 0.5g of chlorphenesin. If it had all crossed the skin barrier instantaneously and stayed there the concentration would be about 1ppm. But if you assume a generous 1 µg/cm²/hour penetration rate – the chances of getting anywhere near that level are pretty low. You need to go down to the nano level, parts per billion, even to find it. But that’s exactly what they did.
As I say, I am extremely impressed by the skill involved, but they were lucky in the properties of chlorphenisin. It has the right molecular weight and lipophilicity to penetrate. It is also metabolised fairly quickly and excreted in the urine. So they had a good chance of getting a sample with a measurable amount. There may be other cosmetic ingredients with similar properties, but I can’t think of any off the top of my head.
